Factory T (Gruen Guild)




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Factory T (Gruen Guild)

Postby Fred » Mon 19. Feb 2024, 14:22

I have previously proposed that Gruen Guild Factory T was Chs. Tissot Fils of Locle--successor of Charles-Emile Tissot. In Dec 1917, the firm was renamed Fabrique d'horlogerie Chs. Tissot & Fils SA.

Sharing evidence. Note the particular shape of the balance cock scallops. Compare to Gruen calibers 145-149 & 266-67, all of which Cleves tables say were introduced in 1920.

148-149 clean.jpg

266 clean.JPG


Tissot-signed example, circa 1921-22, of what would be the Gruen cal 267 (17J variant of the 266, image just above). This initials/triangle/ADOC mark registered 12 Oct 1921.
267 tissot example.jpg
267 tissot example.jpg (24.27 KiB) Viewed 21 times


Tissot design from 1916 --> lapsed 1922
26763 hi res.jpg


Tissot design from 1919 --> perhaps a relative, but not clearly legible; renewed until lapsing in 1934
30774 - not visible(1).jpg
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Re: Factory T (Gruen Guild)

Postby Dietrich » Tue 20. Feb 2024, 05:00

Perfect, I agree, these movements are coming very close.
Unfortunately no coverage of the setting pieces in the usual movement lists but I agree the movements are very close to the deposés by Tissot. And Factory "T" makes perfect sense for them.
Here probably better pictures of the registrations:

Tissot 285.JPG
Tissot 285.JPG (25.27 KiB) Viewed 17 times

Tissot 106.JPG
Tissot 106.JPG (14.2 KiB) Viewed 17 times


In terms of the setting bits I always found this one being closest:

Font 23700.JPG
Font 23700.JPG (30.01 KiB) Viewed 17 times


Paulson assigned it to FHF and called it 23700. But this is unusual, all other FHF 10.5 ligne movements have FFxxx numbers assigend, it is just as if Paulson was unsure if this really is a FHF movement...
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Re: Factory T (Gruen Guild)

Postby Fred » Wed 21. Feb 2024, 17:39

Dietrich wrote:...In terms of the setting bits I always found this one being closest:

Paulson assigned it to FHF and called it 23700. But this is unusual, all other FHF 10.5 ligne movements have FFxxx numbers assigend, it is just as if Paulson was unsure if this really is a FHF movement...


This one we have seen in the Gruen lineup, as well--and right next door. Although the Paulson 23700 is a 10L-10.5L (with plates & train showing it is the base of Cal 266), its 9.75L sister is known as the cal 142 & 143. By proximity, perhaps cal 142/3 is Factory T/Tissot, but I do not have one to compare markings under the dial.

Here are some made by Tissot, the first like Gruen 142/3 (pl for Bulova, stamped Tissot by balance). Also have seen both below signed A. Lecoultre with Tissot stamps.
2.JPG

1.jpg
1.jpg (29.7 KiB) Viewed 12 times
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