All about Gruen

[Mr. Bieser]

This concerns Bruner-Ritter, an official Gruen bracelet/band supplier. Part 1.

In 1914 Simon Bruner (b.Szaja Lajb Bruner in Będzin, Silesian Voivodeship, Poland, 1876)
and brother Herman acquire X. L. Jewelry MFG Co., NY, New York.
This is the start of S. Bruner Inc., manufacturer of watch attachment's, watch cases and ring's.
See several of Simon Bruner's patents from Teens and 20's here:

https://patents.google.com/?inventor=Bruner+Simon

In 1921 Bruner Watch Co is established.

In 1925 Saul Ritter marries Melrod Bruner, daughter of Simon Bruner.

In 1926 Simon Bruner registers Brunvil.

In 1927 Herman Bruner dies.

In 1931 Simon Bruner dies. The company continues under his son, Marvin Bruner.

In 1932 the concern is now know as Bruner-Ritter.

Photo of mark from an original stainless bracelet on guildite variant of Strap 266 from my collection.

20230915_183708.jpg (9.96 KiB) Viewed 71 times

And this is where the first known Gruen connections begin, with Bruner-Ritter supplying bracelets for ladies and gents models throughout the 30's, 40's, and 50's.

This clip shows indeed Bruner-Ritter as Gruen supplier, Sponsor, January 1950. And gets us up to speed on the decade this next post pertains to.

20230915_184355.jpg (32.57 KiB) Viewed 71 times

[Barney Green]

Very interesting, thanks for sharing. I have never looked into this company yet.

But apparently this is all mine now, as the logo is made of the initials of my real name...

[Fred]

Yep, every Gruen with these straps seems to have your name on it! Destiny I think.

Good info, Mr B, and an intriguing teaser!

[Mr. Bieser]

Thanks for the interest! Wasn't trying to tease but it's more manageable if I break it up.
Part 2.

As to not gloss over Saul Irving Ritter (b.New York, 1899), he was not only a wizard salesman but a successful horological related inventor in his own right. See several of his patents here.


https://patents.google.com/?inventor=Sa ... aul+Ritter


Marvin Bruner also.

https://patents.google.com/patent/USD98 ... +J.+Brnner


With continued innovations this propelled Bruner-Ritter into being one of the largest watch attachment companies in the US and Canada.

In the 40's and 50's perhaps their biggest hit was the wide variety of "Bretton" bands for ladies and gents, which originally came on a number of Gruen models.
1953.

But that's a common way to go....of course. This is a little less. Ok, now it's a teaser..

[Fred]

…This is a little less. Ok, now it's a teaser..

Lol, on a roll! Lovin it!

[Mr. Bieser]

Part 3

Besides watch cases, watch attachments, like bands and bracelets, Bruner-Ritter had long made "men's accessories" going back to the early days.

In 1954 Bruner-Ritter files for trademark the rights and protections to "JAGUAR" for "bracelets, wrist watch bracelets, cuff links, tie clasps made either in whole or in part of precious metal"

Ads for Jaguar jewelry.
June, 55

Dec, 56

Dec,56

Dec, 57

Small article on Jaguar line. March 1956.

Searching vintage Jaguar cufflinks returns numerous examples. I've observed dozens more. They came in gold filled, sterling, and gold, and many precious and semi-precious stones...but none quite like mine!

First, please see this example here, original box, onyx, gold filled, but note the marks. These are nearly identical to mine in many ways and show the typical pair of Jaguar cufflinks with the usual marks.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/325298471261

Second, sterling example.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/275440493745

Which hold this patent.

Now, I noticed these unusual sardonyx Jaguar cufflinks with a peculiar stamp that I recognized, so I had to have them. No patent stamp but I believe it's the Oldak patent still.

And that's what started me down this path....my genuine "GRUEN WATCH CO." cufflinks by Jaguar/Bruner-Ritter, though as always with Gruen many questions remain, but I like the base I've dug out.
Thoughts?

[Dietrich]

Woah, cool!
Yes, I agree these look like from the patent. Has there been a promotional package with watch and cufflinks like in former days the pocket wach knife combination or later the ladies bracelet / wrist watch combinations? I would assume that these cufflinks may be from such a package.

[Fred]

My thoughts? Just Wow! Excellent findings.

If not a retail add-on, as suggested, perhaps a company gift/reward for employees?

[Mr. Bieser]

Thanks for the feedback! Both are theories I've considered, both have potential.
While I think the steampunk abandoned Gruen movement cufflinks are cool, happy to have something a lil more official.
I'll add any additional info on B/R here.